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Moving in Memory: Thoughts About Age, Kitchen Gardens, and Art


Article # : 13545 

Section : THE ARTS
Issue Date : 4 / 1988  1,052 Words
Author : Julia Randall

        Recipes
       
        When, late from France, I introduced
        quiches to the campus, they became so common
        I felt compelled to change my specialty.
        It couldn't be cassoulet; you couldn't get
        the Toulouse sausages. It couldn't be langoustines.
        How often I wish
        Americans could learn to grow crawfish.
       
        Of course I gave my recipes away.
        Last night I gave Esterlee
        the zucchini casserole, and she'll give it to Jessie,
        and so it goes. No keeping a secret. I may revert
        to Maryland chicken and angel cake. The fit survive,
        and the raw materials
        don't change much in a lifetime, but they change:
        there was no tea at Stonehenge. It's hard to think back--
        no beans, no wheat--
        but somehow there was always something to eat.
        So much is fixed, but how it's mixed
        with foreign influence, like wars,
        weather, and trade winds, genes
        and genius, who's to tell?
        I poach the flounder in my mother's dish.
        The scholars say my mother was a fish.
        The strict constructionists say man
        strutted on two legs of his own
        all around Eden. Maybe he did,
        sharing his recipe with only God, and his spare rib
        with woman.
       
        She found apples
        good eating. Naturally she shared.
        She discovered blood,
        guts, seasonings; how to make stock; how best to grow
        salads and sesames; and how to raise
        bread. One son discovered how to rais the dead
        but he never told.
       
        Now she grows old, beyond experiment.
        The harvests shrivel; hands are obsolete
        in the modern kitchen, simples in the sickroom.
        Her traveling grandchildren have much to learn
        in secret space, where the bright planets turn
        ocean, perhaps, come shore, come kitchen garden.
       
        The
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