"There is no power without clothes… They move the human race to willing and spontaneous respect for the judge, the general, the admiral, the ambassador, the frivolous earl, the idiot duke, the sultan, the king, the emperor. No great title is efficient without clothes to support it."
--Mark Twain in 1905.
If clothes make the man, then it's attention to the fine details of dressing--the cut and color of his suit, alligator-skin shoes, a crest or family monogram on his shirt's French cuffs, and discreet gold cuff links--that attest to his power. Men on top have learned that it's these little things that count.
"The color of your suit immediately establishes your authority and credibility," says John T. Molloy, author of John T. Molloy's Dress for Success. "The darker the suit, the more authority it transmits," he says. "A black suit is more authoritative than a dark blue suit, but it is much too powerful for most men, and should seldom be worn because of its funeral overtones. The most authoritative pattern is the pinstripe," he advises. "If you need to be more authoritative, stick with dark pinstripes."
He adds: "The most acceptable clothing in New York, Boston, and San Francisco is the dark- and medium-range gray suit, dark- and medium-range blue suit with or without pinstripes, white or blue shirt, and upper-middle-class conservative tie."
Luciano Franzoni, fashion director of Hart, Schaffner and Marx, one of the largest manufacturers of tailored garments, says, "A gentleman who wants to make an impression should be as careful in selecting accessories as he is in selecting his suit.
"In neckwear he should stay away from trendy patterns or colors. He should be extremely selective with footwear. Frequently, you see a person with a great suit and a nice shirt and tie, but his shoes are not up to par. They are the most neglected items in most men's wardrobes.
"I suggest less quantity and more quality. It is a better return on your investment. When looking at someone's image, people who are critical look for those details."
Shoes and suspenders
He adds that the choice of shoes depends on one's fashion philosophy. "If one likes British-American styles, which most people in the business world do, they should show substance. Loafers were a no-no in the business world. Now, the guard has been lowered. Many executives now wear European lighter-weight shoes, loafers with thin soles. But, if a gentleman wears a British-American garment, he should not wear light, thin-soled European shoes."
"Suspenders," he says, "are very much in fashion. Suits with pleated pants now automatically have buttons inside for suspenders. It seems strange to me. You see men wearing somber suits--navy blues and grays with little patterns--with a white shirt and subdued tie. Then they open their coat and you see a bright pair of suspenders. Most are colorful with patterns and stripes; they tend to humanize the otherwise severe image. It's an updated traditional gentleman's
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